Let me begin by saying that I’m not a gusher. I don’t gush.
I’m super stingy with my compliments. If you work in the fashion industry,
you’d understand. Sometimes you’re so engrossed in the scene, you become immune
to mediocrity. You approach designs methodically…with a removed but acute
alacrity—you see tulle and you think Comme Des Garcons Fall Winter 09, you see
fringe and you think Jil Sander Fall Winter 08. You know what I mean. There’s a
drone in your head from the parade of monotonous so-so designs. BUT the first
time I became acquainted with Sapto’s work, something in me clicked. What
followed was a near maniacal obsession with the man whose designs got me
feeling excited about fashion all over again.
Being the official blogger of JFW 09/10 does have its perks.
I got Sapto to agree to an exclusive interview just for y’all. Enjoy!
How did you start
your career in the Fashion Industry?
I graduated from ESMOD then spent most of the time trying
out different things—I was a costume designer, stylist, make-up artist and
illustrator. I kept going until I realized that fashion design is the one thing
that sustains both my ideas and abilities.
Design Philosphy?
I like to mix two contradictive elements in my design and give
it a personal twist. For example, I would infuse a bold design with something
soft.
Designers you look up
to?
Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy), Nicolas Ghesquiere (Balenciaga),
and Haider Ackermann. I find that these designers have their own unique
creative direction unlike any other designers out there. I also admire that
they are both critically and commercially successful. I also look up to Biyan.
I am figuring out how to create designs not only as an exercise of idealism but
also as a successful business venture.
What kind of woman do
you design for?
Well, so far my label, Sapto
Djokokartiko Couture is a made-to-order line so I try to improve upon my
clients’ personal styles. This year, I’m trying to gradually introduce my own
style. I like playing with the idea of masculinity/femininity. My designs are
generally clean but I’d add interesting details whether it’s the fit or volume.
I’m not a big fan of bright colors. I’m more of a monochromatic person—black,
gray, etc.
What are your future
goals?
I’ve only been working on my label for 2 years but I’m planning
several lines for 2010, among them a Ready To Wear and accessories line.
Another dream of mine would be to design for a house that’s completely separate
from my eponymous line, something more wearable for the masses.
Any challenges you
may have faced so far?
I’m more of a conceptual person. Management’s not really my
forte, which is why I need support in management/promotions.
What do you do on
your down time?
Clubbing (laughs). I love all sorts of music, especially
upbeat ones. Lighting and music inspire me. They bring my design concepts to
life. For example, this collection I’m presenting at JFW was initially inspired
by Joan of Arc but over time—thanks to the music I’ve been listening—the
designs become more modern. I can visualize them better and everything just
falls into place seamlessly.
How do you feel about
being a part of JFW 09/10?
As a newcomer, I’m proud to be able to participate.
Hopefully it’ll help expose my work. This is my first show ever so even though
I could only present 6 looks; I hope it’ll help me to better understand how the
industry works.
So there you go, a more intimate look into Sapto
Djokokartiko. Visit his showroom:
Jl. Villa Sawo Kav.17, Cipete Utara. Jakarta Selatan.
+6221- 724804