Let me begin by saying that I’m not a gusher. I don’t gush.
I’m super stingy with my compliments. If you work in the fashion industry,
you’d understand. Sometimes you’re so engrossed in the scene, you become immune
to mediocrity. You approach designs methodically…with a removed but acute
alacrity—you see tulle and you think Comme Des Garcons Fall Winter 09, you see
fringe and you think Jil Sander Fall Winter 08. You know what I mean. There’s a
drone in your head from the parade of monotonous so-so designs. BUT the first
time I became acquainted with Sapto’s work, something in me clicked. What
followed was a near maniacal obsession with the man whose designs got me
feeling excited about fashion all over again.
Being the official blogger of JFW 09/10 does have its perks.
I got Sapto to agree to an exclusive interview just for y’all. Enjoy!
How did you start
your career in the Fashion Industry?
I graduated from ESMOD then spent most of the time trying
out different things—I was a costume designer, stylist, make-up artist and
illustrator. I kept going until I realized that fashion design is the one thing
that sustains both my ideas and abilities.
Design Philosphy?
I like to mix two contradictive elements in my design and give
it a personal twist. For example, I would infuse a bold design with something
soft.
Designers you look up
to?
Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy), Nicolas Ghesquiere (Balenciaga),
and Haider Ackermann. I find that these designers have their own unique
creative direction unlike any other designers out there. I also admire that
they are both critically and commercially successful. I also look up to Biyan.
I am figuring out how to create designs not only as an exercise of idealism but
also as a successful business venture.
What kind of woman do
you design for?
Well, so far my label, Sapto
Djokokartiko Couture is a made-to-order line so I try to improve upon my
clients’ personal styles. This year, I’m trying to gradually introduce my own
style. I like playing with the idea of masculinity/femininity. My designs are
generally clean but I’d add interesting details whether it’s the fit or volume.
I’m not a big fan of bright colors. I’m more of a monochromatic person—black,
gray, etc.
What are your future
goals?
I’ve only been working on my label for 2 years but I’m planning
several lines for 2010, among them a Ready To Wear and accessories line.
Another dream of mine would be to design for a house that’s completely separate
from my eponymous line, something more wearable for the masses.
Any challenges you
may have faced so far?
I’m more of a conceptual person. Management’s not really my
forte, which is why I need support in management/promotions.
What do you do on
your down time?
Clubbing (laughs). I love all sorts of music, especially
upbeat ones. Lighting and music inspire me. They bring my design concepts to
life. For example, this collection I’m presenting at JFW was initially inspired
by Joan of Arc but over time—thanks to the music I’ve been listening—the
designs become more modern. I can visualize them better and everything just
falls into place seamlessly.
How do you feel about
being a part of JFW 09/10?
As a newcomer, I’m proud to be able to participate.
Hopefully it’ll help expose my work. This is my first show ever so even though
I could only present 6 looks; I hope it’ll help me to better understand how the
industry works.
So there you go, a more intimate look into Sapto
Djokokartiko. Visit his showroom:
Jl. Villa Sawo Kav.17, Cipete Utara. Jakarta Selatan.
+6221- 724804
Maybe its the bleached hair or the super fierce strut but Kimmy brings it like no one else could.
Hot manservants bearing shoes on a silver plate. Yummy!!! Fairytale come true, no?
Finally!
Something for the boys...or you girls in dire need of an excuse to
makeover your guys. Im not saying there arent a lot of stylish guys
in this city but they havent had much to choose from the local
menswear scene. Thankfully, looking at the innovative array of menswear
from todays Fashion First show, the boys now have a reason to splurge
on something other than generic sportwear labels or worse...electronic
gadgets. (bleargh)Nikicios menswear line, Nikicio Homme,
churned out some very well-tailored pieces-- masculine but with added
edge. If there was one trend that shed like you to pay attention to:
crop them pants!Nikicio HommeUnlike
Nikicio, Jeffry Tan wanted his boys to take more risks. Case in point:
that gathering at the crotch. I imagine it could be quite tricky for
normal guys to pull off, especially if he is not tall or lean but hey,
it is fashion. One particular piece I liked was the asymmetrical shirt
also with some gathers at the side. My boss just told me he would never
be caught dead wearing it, what do you think? Jeffry TanNow, I dont know how you feel about these images below. I like the idea of the sheer paneling, I just cant imagine Bob from accounting pulling this off. hmmm male nip slips. Deden SiswantoJeffrey Tan
I love clothes but shoes...I would sacrifice a limb for. In fact, Ive been sort of doing that this week--running about all day in 10-inch heels. In any case, the point of all that was to assure you that Im a true shoe fanatic (like every other fashion nut out there) and that Ive gathered here for you some of the most kick-ass sole-boosters. Enjoy :)
Sapto
Jeffry Tan
Adesagi Kierana
I tell everyone this all the time: we need more Ready To Wear labels. Well to my personal delight, today I saw exactly what Ive been waiting to see. 2 of APPMIs newest additions, Junie Kwanda and Anastasia delivered 2 very different yet equally solid Ready To Wear collections.
Junie Kwanda is a quirky girl. Her collection "Alice in Robotopia" was a refreshing, fun and imaginative mix of cute pastel colors, ruffles and other cartoonish details ala Japanese cosplay. I dont know if anyone is going to wear a Harajuku outfit out to lunch but the show itself was a blast. Its good to see a designer with a vision. This one is definitely one to watch.
Natashas "La Garconne" consists of some very good separates, my favorite being the sheer black blazer paired with a white cropped-top. The monochromatic palette kept the lineup simple and utilitarian. The styling was spot-on and each of the models walked such a fierce strut that I left the venue convinced that I was going to locate the designer and tell her I want the entire collection.
Like WHOA! Check out Adrians fierce get-up
The title above pretty much summed up how I feel about todays show...in a good way of course. Im so impressed I havent been able to stop grinning. As much as I love traditional fabrics and silhouettes, its about time we see something fun!
ESMODs showcase was a joyride. Saptos collection in particular was breathtaking, droolworthy, awe-inspiring...you get the point. Dont feel bad if you havent heard of him before because you WILL hear a lot of him in the near future. His name has been circulated amongst fashion editors for a while now but after todays show, theres no stopping this genius. Inspired by Joan of Arc, his collection featured mindboggling silhouettes that got me absolutely floored!!! Strong shoulders, generous layers of fringe and those SHOES!
Another standout collection came from Evelyn Fransiska who invoked Roman grandeur in the form of sexy draped minis (including one very scandalous backless number). I like that she decided to keep the palette simple, focusing instead on creating a very well-curated lineup.
I am a big proponent of subtlety. I find blatancy extremely crude and grotesque. Im suspicious of clothes that are too elaborately-ornamented--makes me wonder if the designers trying to camouflage a flaw. In any case, I saw some very interesting albeit minute details that I think could only enhance the garments appeal.
Like that frothy tulle goodness peeking underneath Susan Zhuangs red-tiered dress. It adds an element of playfulness and glamour at the same time, which is just brilliant.
Or that slit on Poppy Dharsonos loose batik pants. The ensembles a relatively conservative one with the collared jacket and all but that slit exposes just the right amount of skin, which modernizes the overall look.
So the next time you sit through a runway show, watch out for those inconspicuous details. Being able to identify them sets you apart from those fashion amateurs.
I dont
know about you but I think a womans back is one of the most under-appreciated
erogenous zones. Its sinuous curve is soft, graceful and as hypnotizing
as...well...you know...its frontal twin counterparts. Fortunately, the
designers seem to take notice. Its always nice to see a model walk down to the
edge the long runway (youve been staring at it for a while now so youre
already kind of over that look), do her little swirl and turn before walking
back and then "whoa!" you get a second dose of that jolt of
excitement all over again. Take a look at these images and tell me you dont
agree.
Sebastian GunawanL-R: Susan Zhuang, Oka Diputra
You do not call yourself a fashion enthusiast if you cant identify these extremely influential fashion editors sitting front row.
So Jakarta Fashion Week 09/10 is finally underway and judging from the throngs of fiercely stylish people crowding Pacific Place, Im guessing Im not the only ones excited about it. News of this years collaboration with the Embassy of India--2 designers are chosen from each country to visit the other to scout for the best traditional fabrics to be made into marvelous sartorial creations--have echoed pervasively for a while now so I was really looking forward to seeing the results at the Gala Dinner on opening night, November 14.To be honest, Im not much of a Sebastian Gunawan woman but he won me over with the basic black palette, some layered with lace and all of them, lusciously embroidered in rich shades of red and gold, topped with gorgeous coral accessories. Malini Ramani’s collection consists of very simple, very wearable modern silhouettes. My favorite look is hands down the shift-dress paired with a metal-mesh vest. Priyo Oktaviano....words cannot describe how utterly mesmerizing his show was. The styling was impeccable and the details took my breath away. The nude asymmetrical dress with the half-puffy sleeve is a must-have and the black jodhpur corseted jumpsuit got me instantaneously revising my finances this month because I just have got to OWN that!To close the show was one of Indias senior designers, Tarun Tahiliani who had admitted to me that he had had trouble working with Indonesian fabrics, that tend to be stiff. Well, I think he handled it more than just fine, seeing how elegant his draped saris had turned out. For the complete runway images, click here